SUMMER TARTS A'LA JUDITH JONES

Other creatures receive food simply as fodder. But we take the raw materials of the earth and work with them - touch them, manipulate them, taste them, glory in their heady smells and colors, and then, through a bit of alchemy, transform them into delicious creations."   Judith Jones

Have you ever formed an attachment to someone who doesn't know you exist? No - I'm not referring to stalking celebrities, or Facebook creeping your exes (though equally good topics - perhaps another time). In this case, I'm describing the affection one develops for a particular author - a writer whose words capture you, and speak to a place deep within that you never knew you had. 

Sounds intensely creepy, right? I'll explain.

During a particularly rough patch a few years ago, I remember stumbling across the book The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food by Judith Jones. I was pawing through the biography section at the bookstore, hungry to read about someone else's life - something wise and sensible to reassure me that mine too, would turn out OK.

A tawny paperback caught my attention, and I found myself meeting the kind gaze of a silver-haired woman, inviting me into the warmth of her kitchen. I didn't even bother reading the blurb and bought the book on a whim - declining a bag from the cashier and stuffing it into my oversized purse instead.

As it turned out, the book didn't stay in my purse long. Upon arriving home later that night, I read it all in one, delicious sitting. I quickly learned through the pages of the memoir that Judith Jones - the kindly presence on the cover - was the legendary editor recognized for discovering Julia Child, and championing her historic Mastering the Art of French Cooking.

What spoke to me more than Judith's gourmet accolades, was the way she wrote about cooking - presenting time spent in the kitchen as a memory, an art form, and the mark of a life well-lived. I loved her romantic writing style as she described the sensuality of taste, texture and aroma - or recounted familiar comforts, such as the way dough thumps against a floured board while kneading. I went on to read Judith's many other books, including her most recent - The Pleasures of Cooking for One, where she reminds us of the importance of protecting the sacred ritual of mealtime: setting the table, lighting candles and listening to music - even when one is eating alone.

Judith's words and vibrant spirit captured my imagination, and filled my then-unhappy self with a renewed hope and purpose through cooking that I still carry with me today. If you haven't read any Judith Jones, I encourage you to give her biography or many cookbooks a try - or take a listen to this NPR interview to get a flavor of her personality. She's such a spunky lady!

As an added bonus, I give you one of Judith's recipes - a beguiling summer tart recipe perfect for filling with plump berries and a dollop of farm-fresh cream.

JUDITH'S RUSTIC SUMMER TART
Adapted from The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food by Judith Jones
Makes one 9-inch tart, or four 5-inch tarts

For the dough:

• 1 cup all-purpose flour, plus extra for work surface
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 8 Tablespoons very cold, unsalted butter (I chilled mine in the freezer for 5 minutes before using to make sure it was cold enough! But not too long, as it will freeze fairly quickly.)
• 1 Tablespoon sugar 
• 3 Tablespoons ice water (I ended up placing a glass of cold water in the freezer for a few minutes to really get it chilled, and dipped my measuring spoon in to get the right amount.)

For the filling:

• Fresh fruit of your choice (I used 1.5 cups of blueberries + 2 whole nectarines, sliced) 
• Sugar
• Jam (your choice of flavor - just skip ones with high fructose corn syrup if you can, boo hiss)
• Lemon juice, optional (I squeezed some on my blueberries for extra zing and because it made me feel gourmet to squeeze things on things)

Instructions

1. Make the dough: spin flour, salt and sugar in the food processor for a few seconds to mix. Cut chilled butter into small chunks and add to flour mixture. Process in spurts 15 times, pulsing just long enough to say "alligator" (per Judith's suggestion). Sprinkle 3 T cold water over dough. Process again 10 times, again saying "alligator" with each pulse. (No food processor? Cutting the butter into the dry ingredients with a pastry blender or two knives works just as well.)
2. Turn dough onto a lightly-floured surface. It will look crumby, but once you squeeze it together with your hands, it forms a perfect dough. If there are dry spots where the dough won't hold together, sprinkle up to 1 T more ice water over dry areas.
3. Knead dough a few times. Shape into a flat dish, wrap in plastic wrap or waxed paper, and refrigerate at least 30 minutes (up to 24 hours). I did mine the minimum 30 minutes and it worked wonderfully.
4. While the dough is chilling, prep the fresh fruit by mixing it with a generous amount of sugar. At least 1-2 T for each cup of fruit. Set aside.
5. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
6. Once the dough is chilled, press it into a tart pan, and trim any excess from the sides.
7. Spread jam on the dough and arrange berries on top. Pack them in there! 
8. Bake tart(s) for 45-55 min. at 350 degrees.
9. Remove from oven and cool. If you're feeling fancy (and patient) serve with fresh whipping cream. I was not, and gobbled mine up right away. :)

Happy baking! With love from the farmhouse,

Grace